Axial SCX10 – Uncover The Virtual Shops That Offer The Most Reasonably-priced Axial SCX10.

The field of RC has many different facets; there’s really something for all. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering may be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one approximately see what every one of the hoopla was with this particular drifter.


WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast


Just How Much: $115.00



• AWD for easy learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning in front of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?A great deal of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric


• Front drive belt slips from the roller bearing


This drifter has a great deal going for it; well manufactured, plenty of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very reasonable price. Handling is nice also as soon as you get accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts an extremely great deal of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for those that love to tinker, which means that this car should grow with you as your skills do.


The D4’s chassis is a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts on the bottom to the front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find quite a few left empty. They could be utilized to control chassis flex, although not with all the stock top deck; an optional you have to be bought. The layout is similar to a regular touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the back bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is readily accessible and replaceable with just a couple turns of some screws.

? Aside from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. One particular A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are being used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll as the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and allows for some extreme camber settings.

? Something that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious volume of steering throw they have got. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as close to the edges of your chassis as you can. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted a great servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

Although it is not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high higher than the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable the use of a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To give the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, however i do remember a technique I used a while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the final result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!


Just for this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to accomplish an image shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and have some sideways action?


The steering in the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. Including the CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a little bit funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an incredible job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the appropriate direction. This really is, to some extent, thanks to the awesome handling from the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.


Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack along with the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to alter the angle from the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding within a little shallow? Increase the throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is made for exactly that. I have done have to be just a little creative together with the install from the system on account of only a little space about the chassis, but overall it resolved great.


After driving connected touring cars for some time, it will go on a little getting used to with the knowledge that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the right way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you get it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at under a couple of inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, along with the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is good, but if you feel just like you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of things to adjust. I just enjoyed the auto together with the kit setup and it also was just an issue of battery power pack or two before I found myself swinging the back throughout the hairpins, across the carousel and backwards and forwards through the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap the battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.


There’s not much that you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I did so, however, provide an trouble with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept from it, attempting to overcome the issue with driving, but soon was required to RPM Team losi parts it into actually look it over. Throughout the build, the belt slips into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is certainly supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square in the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.

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